As we grow (whether we want to or not) and our taste in clothing matures, we must find a way to alter patterns and garments for a better fit. There are a few simple rules we recommend following when altering the bodice-front of a garment for a better fit.
Use a formula called the “length-before-width” rule when altering the bodice of a garment. If the needed length changes are made first, then the needed width changes will then be at the right level on the body. If the first changes are made to the width, then when the length measurements are checked and need to be changed somewhere on the pattern, the width changes may now be at the wrong level and need to be redone.
Measurements for bodice-front LENGTH:
- Center front – waist to neckline over bust elastic
- Full bodice length – waist to side of neck over bust elastic
- Bust height – waist to bust point level
- Shoulder slope – this is only necessary if square or sloped shoulders are an issue
- Side seam – waist to ¾” below armseye joint
Measurements for bodice-front WIDTH:
- Shoulder width – end point of collar bone to neck
- Shoulder tip to tip – between end of both collar bones
- High chest – from armseye to creases
- Full bust – side seam to side seam across bust level
- Waist – side seam to side seam across from of body